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Fiber Cement Lap Siding materials should be stacked flat on a level surface. They should be kept dry prior to installation. If the panels become wet, allow to dry completely before installation begins. Carry one or two planks at a time on edge, to prevent possible damage.
It can be installed to wood or metal framing. Framing should be in accordance with local building codes. If required by code, a vapor barrier must be installed.
Studs should be spaced at 16 or 24 inch centers. A minimum of a 1 1/2 inch stud face is preferred to provide sufficient area for fasteners.
Nails or screws may be used for installing Fiber Cement Lap Siding, depending on type of stud. Minimum of 1" into wood, 3 threads into steel.
Wood Studs :
Use 6d galvanized common nails through both over and underlapping planks.
Metal Studs :
For light guage steel frames, use C-Drill 8 x 1 5/8" self-drilling and self-embedding screws. Fasten planks at each stud through both over and underlapping plank.
Concealed Fastening :
For wood studs, use #11 gauge, 1 3/4" galvanized roofing nails only through the top the underlapping plank.
For metal studs, use C-Wing 8 x 1 1/4" self-drilling and self-embedding screws only through the top of the underlapping plank.
1. Fasten flashings at all corners. Provide all undersill, head and side flashings at openings and elsewhere, as required by good construction practices.
2. Fasten metal or wood stops at all corners.
3. Install a continuous 1/4 inch thick shim strip along the bottom of the frame. This is done in order to kick out the bottom edge of the first Fiber Cement Lap Siding course. 2" x 10" Batten can also be used.
4. Using a level, snap a chalk line around the perimeter of the framing, at the top edge of first course of Fiber Cement Lap Siding. Install a series of nails and screws along the chalk line, creating a stop or guide for easy installation of starter course.
5. Install the first plank, starting at external corner. Make sure that the end of the first plank butts to the corner stop and that the top of the plank is against the line of fasteners at the chalk line mark. Fasten the plank at each stud through the shim strip.
6. Install the next plank in position, aligning edges carefully and butting end of the plank in center of metal jointer. For the first course of planks only, cut off the two lower back leveling lugs of the jointers with tin snips to prevent interference with the shim strip. Slide jointer over the end of the first plank.
7. To protect against the movement of frame leave a small gap between planks, and caulk with structural grade caulking. Continue fastening the first course of planks around the building, finishing plank ends flush with all stops.
8. Remove guide nails or screws from chalk line.
9. Start second course, working from an external corner and using less than full-length plank so joints are staggered a minimum of two feet. When joining on stud, use lap guage.
Plank overlaps can be varied to suit the particular height of the wall. The minimum recommended overlap is 1 1/4 inch.
Continue installing planks around the building. When using concealed jointing, the lower back lugs of the jointer should be placed firmly over the previous run of planks.
10. Use same installation method for all runs, checking levels occasionally.
Notes:
If fasteners are placed less than 2 inches from ends of planks, fastener holes should be pre-drilled.
The top course of planks may require cutting to the correct width.
Straight Cuts :
The Scorer fiber-cement scoring tool has been specially designed for easy cutting of planks.
Using a straight edge as a guide, carefully draw the scorer several times toward yourself, applying even pressure on the scorer. Always score the face of the plank. Then, hold the straight edge firmly along the scoring line, bend upwards and break. If necessary, clean the edge with a rasp or coarse sandpaper. If using a power saw, wear a mask and goggles for protection.
Round Openings :
Circular openings can be made by drilling several holes around the circumference of the desired opening and tapping out the center piece.
Square Openings :
Score several times along the perimeter of the desired opening. Form hole in center, then saw or cut from center out to corners. Tap out waste piece.
Notches :
Use a hand saw or power saw for cuts leading in from plank edge. Then score or cut back edge.
Water based acrylic exterior paint adheres extremely well to Fiber Cement Lap Siding. Two coats are sufficient for long lasting beauty. Always follow paint manufacturer's specifications.
Our stocks a full range of accessories to be used with its lap-siding system. All metal trim pieces are 10 ft. long and made of 26-gauge paintable, galvanized steel and offering many performance and workability advantages:
Metal trim aligns corners
Is self-flashing
Can be used as a fire guard corner trim
Will not split, warp, twist, or buckle
Can be nailed or screwed
Works with wood or metal framing
Is not subject to termite or pest damage
Trims easily with tin snips.
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